Zhuanta Hutong (Brick Pagoda Alley): "Root" of Beijing's Backstreets

Among the thousands of hutongs across Beijing, Zhuanta Hutong, aka Brick Pagoda Alley, is undisputedly the oldest. It is the only alley documented in 13th-century Yuan Dynasty texts that is still bustling with life today. If you're looking for the "root" of Beijing hutongs, start your journey here.
 It is this very brick pagoda that gave the adjacent lane its name Brick Pagoda Alley. Located just south of the pagoda, the alley has carried this name since the Yuan Dynasty (1271 - 1368), remaining unchanged for over 700 years.

The Wansong Pagoda is an octagonal, nine-story, dense-eave style brick pagoda standing approximately 15.9 meters (52 feet) tall. It sits on a carved base. The body of the pagoda is unadorned, featuring a simple and antique style, with a stone inscription embedded on its southern side recording its history.

This pagoda was built in 13th century as a tomb by the disciples of Venerable Wansong to commemorate him. Wansong was a renowned Buddhist master in China from the late 12th to the early 13th century. At the age of 15, he begged his parents to allow him to become a monk. When a massive army besieged the city, he refused to leave, and led fellow monks and laypeople in chanting sutras to uphold spiritual practice and protect the community. Fearless in the face of the soldiers' threats, he moved everyone with the teachings of Buddhism and earned the respect of the military.

In the 1700s, to protect the original structure, a new brick shell was built around it, making it a rare "Pagoda-within-a-Pagoda". So, you're actually looking at two dynasties standing in the exact same spot.

Zhengyang Bookstore, located inside the Pagoda courtyard, is Beijing's premier bookstore for local history. It's a treasure trove of "Old Beijing" nostalgia, filled with vintage maps and rare photos.
 Newly opened in 2025, this courtyard at No.33 of Zhuanta Hutong is a vibrant space for tea, local crafts, and art exhibitions. Head straight for the third-floor terrace, a great spot for a panoramic view of the endless expanse of traditional roof tiles that define Old Beijing.
 Deeper in the alley lies a small temple dedicated to Guan Yu, a legendary 2nd-century general and China’s patron saint of loyalty. The entrance looks modest, but look up at the roof, you'll see yellow glazed tiles and dragon carvings. 

In Qing Dynasty (1644 - 1911), such yellow-glazed tiles and dragon ridge ornaments were strictly reserved for imperial architecture. Any unauthorized use was a capital offense under sumptuary laws. This temple's extraordinary privilege is attributed to its rumored patron, Zhang Lude, a powerful eunuch close to Empress Dowager Cixi, who privately funded the shrine as his personal residence. By the waning years of the dynasty, court etiquette had so loosened that eunuchs and high officials routinely flouted building codes with impunity, and this humble lane-side shrine quietly preserved its royal splendor.
 In 1923, Lu Xun, revered as the "Father of Modern Chinese Literature," lived in this courtyard after a rift with his brother who forced him to leave the former residence. To the Chinese, Lu Xun is equivalent to Charles Dickens or Ernest Hemingway. During his short 10-month stay here, he wrote some of his most powerful works that challenged old traditions, including the iconic short story "The New Year's Sacrifice".

Today, the original structure has been restored and the courtyard, at No.84 of the Zhuanta Hutong, has been reopened as a free, no-reservation cultural space featuring an artful exhibition on Lu Xun's life, vintage textbook displays, historical photographs, and screenings of film adaptations of his works. Though the grey-brick walls and quiet yard are newly refreshed, the atmosphere still evokes the turmoil and creative fervor of Lu Xun's pivotal months here.
 Take Subway Line 4 to Xisi Station, and get out from Exit D. It's just a 2-minute walk to the alley entrance.
 The Brick Pagoda Alley: Open 24/7.
Brick Pagoda & Zhengyang Bookstore: Mon–Fri: 09:00–18:30; Sat–Sun: 09:00–20:00. Free entry.
Experience Center: Daily 10:00–20:00; free entry.
Lu Xun's Former Residence: Tue–Sun: 10:00–16:00; closed on Mon.
 Give yourself 1.5 to 2 hours to wander and soak it all in. After your walk, you're just steps away from the peaceful Guangji Temple, headquarters of the Buddhist Association of China, or the magnificent Temple of the Monarchs of Past Dynasties. Also within a 5-minute walk north is the Geological Museum of China, which is China's oldest national geoscience museum.